When we first moved to Shanghai, with a wide-eyed sense of adventure and enough energy to walk all over exploring the city, we delighted in trying out all the divey little restaurants and street food stalls--you know, searching for all that "real China" stuff. Unfortunately, we soon found out that just because a cheap eatery was a small, mom-and-pop place with the kind of gritty charm we'd seen in Wong Kar Wai films, it didn't mean the food was any good.

Ironic, perhaps, that we were introduced to the mala tang (spicy-hot/numb soup) at Chuan Chuan Xiangby a well-heeled Shanghai princess. We rolled up in a Mercedes, the driver let us out, and we ducked in. Broken plastic orange chairs, greasy floors slippery with discarded scraps, bone-white fluorescent lights, and shouting matches between the kitchen and customers. We were told this was the place--the place where Shanghainese came to get mala tang. We were suspicious--the restaurant only seats about 40 total (there are 2 floors of seating) and mala tang is such a ubiquitous genre of restaurant that there must be other options. So we’ve tried different places over the years but every time we come back to Chuan Chuan, we have to agree, this place is a cut above the rest.

Since there's an eternal line here, mostly for take-out, you'll need to know the routine before you push your way in. There's a stack of empty plastic square baskets--yes, they’re greasy; don't wear your new Prada jacket here. Grab a basket. Fill the basket with skewers of raw vegetables, various starches (noodles, vermicelli, rice cakes), tofu, and then go to the refrigerator and select your meats. Each skewer is either .5rmb or 1.5rmb. Take time to look at which items are freshest because the popular items are replenished frequently.

Personally we're most fond of the quail eggs--they retain some bite and have a neutral flavor that compliments the broth. We also select vegetables like cauliflower, carrots, and bamboo shoots that stay firm yet soak up flavor. Leafy green vegetables tend to get soggy. The various tofu and wheat gluten items, and fish balls, are also good compliments to the spicy-salty broth. We usually like sweet Chinese sausage, but avoid it at mala tang. Maybe it's the cheapness here, but we've found a few too many odd crunchy bits.

So take your full basket (we usually end up with about 10-15 items) and get in line. They'll take your basket and do a quick count of your skewers, and add up your tab. They also ask if you want fresh herbs (cilantro/coriander), glass noodles, and what your desired spice level is (keep in mind you can add spice at the table). Either use your Chinese to ask for what you want or your standard "confused foreigner" look and they'll decide for you. Our average is 8rmb in summer, and 12rmb in winter--we're just hungrier in colder weather. Pay there and take your number. Notice that the plastic colored poker chips denote your spice level.

About ten minutes later the soup comes out. We like to cover it in "ma"--the Sichuan peppercorn powder that gives mala tang its numbing effect. This causes your mouth to water and throat to relax, and then you can take in more hot chili spice. There's also squeeze bottles of peanut sauce, chili sauce, and vinegar (cuts the grease).

Chuan Chuan Xiang only has Pepsi and weird, scary orange soda to drink, the later of which we find ludicrously sweet. So we pick up some tea or beer at the nearby corner shop, and they don't seem to mind us bringing it in. We also sometimes bring in our own plastic bowl, because they can't always keep up with the dish washing and use styro-foam take-out bowls, which are bad for the environment. Do your little part when you can.

It's also worth mentioning that you'll be sharing a table with strangers and occasionally fighting over the condiments. No worries.

Again, we've tried over 30 mala tang places in Shanghai, and too many of them use wilted, old ingredients, un-replenished selections, and broth that is just too greasy or salty. Chuan Chuan Xiang's popularity is part of the reason it remains good--they have to keep the selection fresh to keep up with demand. And as long as we're in town, we'll be a part of that demand. Chuan Chuan Mala Tang is located at 311 Xiangyang Lu, near Yongjia Lu.

-from smartshanghai.com by Michael