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After a few minutes exploration down some of its many back streets, I discovered why Suzhou is often praised as the “Venice of the Orient.” Aside from the countless picturesque stone bridges peppering the city, Suzhou, like Venice, was once a great trading port, supplying goods from China’s “most productive land.” And during my brief visit I saw many small boats using the rivers to transport goods throughout the city.
It’s also the silk capital of China. It was from here that silk would have been transported along the Grand Canal to Beijing, and eventually all the way along the silk road to places as far away as Rome. Even today, Suzhou’s silk exports account for 30 percent of the country’s total. With its mild climate, fertile landscape and abundance of produce, it is no wonder that Suzhou is referred to as “heaven on earth.”
Suzhou’s gardens date back as far as 600 AD, and in 1997 UNESCO declared over 25 of them World Heritage Sites. These gardens were designed by artists who were hired at the height of the Tang and Song dynasties, and used four basic elements to create a harmony between heaven and earth: trees, water, bridges and rock. With an abundance of water, and stones brought from nearby Lake Tai, it was the trees (the older the better) which were the most prized elements of the garden. The gardens are not known for their size, but for their delicate design incorporating hills and ponds, terraces and corridors.
Suzhou also has a strong tradition of Kunqu Opera, which was listed by UNESCO in 2001 as one of the “Masterpieces of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity.” A good place to see it is at the Garden of the Master of the Nets, which is also one of the city’s nine gardens to have earned a UNESCO World Heritage listing. A small residential garden located to the southeast of the center of town, it was originally laid out in the 12th century and restored in the 18th century.
Although small, many regard this garden as the most impressive, thanks to its beauty and creative use of space. The garden has a wonderful evening cultural show every night from March to November. Audiences move from pavilion to pavilion appreciating the music, songs and dances performed by musicians in traditional costumes in rooms decorated in Qing dynasty furniture. Although it’s popular with tour groups, I was made welcome as an individual visitor. The classical setting was a relaxing and complementary way to appreciate both the atmosphere of a Chinese garden at night, and the ancient Wu culture through folk songs, music and opera.
One of the most charming aspects of a stay in Suzhou can be found by wandering around its ancient streets and canal ways. One noteworthy district just ten minutes walk from Suzhou’s train station is Shantang Street. Although restored on the eastern side, many unique traditional dwellings can still be seen by walking west. Whitewashed houses line the waterways and a gondola ride is the perfect way to take in the sights, evoking memories of a distant past left by the city’s long history.
After a long day exploring the city, I finished by taking in the sunset on top of Tiger Hill, just to the west. The tenth century leaning pagoda at the top of the hill began tilting 400 years ago. As I was already starting to wilt, I took a private boat from the park all the way back to my hotel in Shantang –a relaxing 20 minute ride downstream and a perfect way to end the day and see the lights coming on in the old town.
As a major tourist city, Suzhou lives up to all expectations in terms of hotel accommodation, transport links, sightseeing opportunities, shopping and recreation. And springtime remains a perfect time to visit. April and May sees flowers in full bloom, and a number of annual festivals are held at this time. The festivals themselves are vibrant, exciting, and a fascinating glimpse into traditional culture, but even when visiting at non-festival times, there’s no doubt that Suzhou offers a heavenly experience.
-from thatsbeijing.com
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