The 4-star Kaitian Hotel is a drab modern hotel in Wulingyuan Village, so most convenient for Tianzishan, Baofeng Hu and Huanglongku. It is always packed with Korean tour groups, who are friendly and gregarious bunch. Middle-aged Koreans on holiday are generally a pleasure to be around, and my days at Zhangjiajie were enlivened by bumping into the same families and groups many times. The Kaitian, like most hotels in the Zhangjiajie area, is expensive at RMB450 per night, but the rooms are fine, except for the lousy soundproofing. I wish I had as much energy as the Korean middle-aged couples on either side of me, and I could hear traffic on the street for much of the night. Unfortunately the room lighting was poor and the bedside lamps had a rather curious bulb in the base so they became very hot, quickly neutralising the air-conditioning! The room only had a shower - no bath - but I'm not sure how many people use baths these days anyway. Like many 4-star hotels in China, they do not accept foreign credit cards, and you will have to pay a deposit of around RMB1500 in cash on arrival for a two-night stay. The breakfast is buffet-style and everything is fresh, because this is a busy hotel. However, it was irritating that despite having a good selection of bread and little tubs of Anchor butter, the staff were unable to find a knife to spread the butter. Ever tried getting soft butter out of a tub with chopsticks, let alone spreading it on bread? Even the Koreans were amused by t