Tales from Turpan  

Long after I had arrived home to the snug familiarity of Shanghai from the dusty and challeng-ing desert basin of Turpan, my revelation came. Often described as one of the most inhospitable terrains in the world, marked with miles of gritty sand dunes, fiery rock formations and a drab flatness, Turpan reminded me of none of these elements. As I sat to reflect on my holiday in Western China, all that this small Silk Road post had imprinted in my mind was colors and more colors.

An endless swathe of land that gets about 3,200 hours of sunshine every year, about 1,000 hours more than other Chinese regions at the same latitude, Turpan is full of surprises.

From Uygur women in traditional dress and enjoying a Kazak family's yurt, to the courtyards of grape farmers in small villages, the vibrancy of the culture and surrounds far outweigh the harsh environment of this land. Perhaps, where nature missed, culture filled in.

On the Silk Road

Turpan, also known as Tulupan in Chinese, is a good 150 kilometers southeast of Urumqi and although the roads resemble the best of highways, the journey can get risky because of sandstorms. Our guide, a Uyghur local, sounded a stern note about the dangers of the sandstorms that spring out of the Gobi Desert with little warning. Nodding our heads we could hardly conceal our shock as our car was hit on the way to our destination. Wind speeds of 70-80 kilometers an hour rocked our little vehicle. Silent glances were exchanged between the three members of my family. Our driver Shen said we were a group of sturdy Indians. Only we knew the truth.

In between this hugely moving (literally) experience, our guide filled us with interesting details about the vast expanse of the remote oasis town, situated on the northern part of the Silk Road where traders rested on their way. In those days, the Silk Road depended upon a line of strategically situated oases that hugged the perimeter of the desert. Although Turpan is one of the lowest places on Earth, with minimal levels of rainfall, it was once referred to as "a green island in the sandy wilderness," by travelers in the 1920s.

The green stretch became evident as we entered the city gates. Dotting this well-planned and compact town are hundreds of vineyards, fed by a special irrigation system Karez, a local underground water transportation system.

Called the Grape Valley, this area in and around Turpan has about 220 hectares of vineyards but we had chosen the wrong time of year to see the grapes grow. In the searing heat of May and June, grapes are dried in huge mud brick structures called drying towers. The towers then turn the grapes into raisins that the locals popularly call kishmish.

Consoling ourselves that something was better than nothing, we headed to the house of a farmer who was hosting a meal of kishmish and nan bread (a staple Uyghur food.) The nan bread disappeared as if it was never served as the farmer looked on expectedly, hoping to sell us his vast array of kishmish. His strategy worked as happily fed with nan bread and watermelon, we loosened our pockets without a thought and bought two kilograms of the local specialty.

Driving into Turpan, many roads are shaded by grapevine trellises and paths are lined with benches. Our guide left us wistful when he explained that local Turpan people spend their evenings strolling down the paths or merely sitting, watching the world go by. Sometimes, this beautiful reverie is broken by a dash of impromptu Uygur song and dance, he said, smiling.

Ancient cities

With the comforting chill of Urumqi a thing of the past, in searing afternoon heat we next set off to Jiaohe, 15 kilometers west of Turpan, a city founded in 2nd century BC and abandoned in the 14th century.

A museum greets visitors at the entry of the town, revealing the ancient mysteries of the local Cheshi people. Jiaohe stands on a plateau 30 meters high, with a willow-leaf-like outline. Founded during the Han Dynasty (206BC-220AD) the city collapsed after wars and invasion.

Buddhist stupas and monasteries at the northwest of the ruins made me realize that the town had seen some very peaceful and harmonious times too. However, during our trek into the ruins of Jiaohe, that included mud-patched and sand residences of government officials and locals, I was drawn into thinking how fascinating it was that these sand structures had withstood the ravages of time.

Heading 46 kilometers southeast of Turpan you will discover Gaochang. The town was founded as a garrison under emperor Wu of the Han Dynasty and had about 30,000 inhabitants, 3,000 monks and more than 40 Buddhist monasteries. As we entered the gates on a mule cart, Gaochang was both daunting, because of its vastness and engaging owing due to its complex history. When Zhang Jun in the Liang Dynasty (502-577) set up Gaochang county, the area changed to one of attacks, captures and recap-tures by various tribes and nationalities.

With little time left to explore each division of this ruined city, we reluctantly had to return to our hotel in Turpan.

When dusk fell, my realization struck: While the day seemed to be coming to an end for my family and me, Turpanites were starting anew, starting afresh. Sounds of Turkish- Kazak music by the lakeside drew us too and so we went, leaving our fatigue behind. Nightlife in Turpan is something one should never miss and I for one, hungrily devoured the entertaining surrounds and the delicious chicken kebabs.